Hey, it's Oscar.
If you've ever had your dog drag you down the street like you're water-skiing behind a speedboat, this one's for you.
The heel position (or what I call "with me") is one of those commands that sounds simple but changes everything.
Your dog walks next to you. Not in front. Not pulling. Not zigzagging across the sidewalk. Just right there at your side.
And here's the thing: it's not about forcing your dog into position. It's about teaching him that being next to you is the best place to be.
Place training gives your dog a job when you need him to chill out.
In today's issue:
Why the heel position matters (even for pet dogs)
The place board trick that makes this 10x easier
How to fade the lure and build real obedience
What I'd do differently now (6 years later)
Why Heel Position Matters:
Most people think heel is just for competition dogs or police K9s.
Not true.
If you take your dog to the park, on walks, to your kid's soccer game (anywhere in public) teaching him to walk next to you makes your life so much easier.
No more getting your shoulder yanked out of socket. No more embarrassing moments when your dog drags you toward another dog. No more tangled leash situations.
The heel position gives you control. And it gives your dog structure.
“Your dog already loves the place board. He's been getting rewarded on it for a week now. He WANTS to get on it.”
The Place Board Trick:
Remember place training from last week?
We're going to use that same place board to teach the heel position.
Here's why this works: your dog already loves the place board. He's been getting rewarded on it for a week now. He WANTS to get on it.
So we're going to use that motivation to get him into the heel position.
Here's how:
Step 1: Position Yourself at Heel
Set up the place board. Stand next to it at the heel position (your dog will be on your left side).
Call your dog to the place board.
As he's coming toward it, you want him to turn and end up right next to your left side.
Step 2: One Step Back, One Step Forward
As your dog approaches the place, take one step back with your left foot, then one step forward.
This guides him into position right next to you.
When he's there, mark it with GOOD and feed him right at your side.
Step 3: Repeat the Loop
Use the same recall loop from episode 2:
Dog is in heel position → say GET IT and toss a treat away
Call him back to place: "[Max!], PLACE"
He comes to place, you guide him into heel position
Mark with GOOD and reward at your side
Repeat 10-15 times.The Recall Loop Game (Like Episode 2):
Adding the Cue "WITH ME":
Once your dog is anticipating coming to your side when he gets to the place, add the verbal cue.
As he's approaching, say "WITH ME."
He gets into position. You mark it. You reward.
(You can use "heel," "with me," "fuss," "side" - whatever word you want. Just stay consistent.)
Fading the Lure:
Here's where most people get stuck.
They keep luring forever. The dog never learns to get into position without the hand gesture.
So after 3-5 sessions, start fading it:
Don't step back with your left foot. Just stand in position.
Don't lure as much with your hand. Let the dog figure it out.
When he gets into position on his own, jackpot him. Give him 5-6 treats.
You're teaching him: "Figure it out yourself, and you get paid even more."
“Every dog starts somewhere. Some pick it up in 5 sessions. Some need 20. That's okay.”
The Two-Board Game (Advanced):
Once your dog is getting it consistently, add a second place board.
Put one on each side of you.
Now you're going to ping-pong between them:
Dog in heel position at board 1 → WAIT
You move to board 2
Call him: "WITH ME"
He comes to heel position at board 2 → GOOD → reward
Repeat
This doubles your reps and keeps the dog engaged.
Real Example: Three Different Dogs
When I filmed this, I showed three dogs at different levels:
Chevy (Mike Epps' 1-year-old Ridgeback): Just starting to learn heel. Strong-willed dog. Needed help with the leash and lots of luring.
Achilles (6-month-old Bull Terrier): Beginner. Very food motivated, which made the sessions easier. Picked it up fast because he wanted the food.
Bear (2-year-old Doberman, son of Gerald's Brody): Advanced. This dog could probably step on any competition field and do well. Heel position is automatic for him now.
The point? Every dog starts somewhere. Some pick it up in 5 sessions. Some need 20. That's okay.
Common Mistakes I See:
Not using the place board. The place board gives the dog a target. Without it, you're just hoping he figures out where to go.
Luring for too long. After 5 sessions, start fading the lure. Otherwise, your dog only knows how to heel when you have food in your hand.
Not rewarding IN the heel position. You want to feed your dog while he's at your side. That's what creates value there.
What I'd Do Differently Now (6 Years Later):
I used to rush this.
I'd teach the heel position in one session and then expect the dog to hold it while walking forward.
That's not how it works.
Now? I spend 3-4 sessions JUST on getting the dog to come to heel position and stay there for a few seconds. No movement. No distractions. Just: get to my side, stay there, get paid.
Once that's solid, THEN I add movement.
I also learned that food motivation matters a lot here. The more food motivated your dog is, the better your sessions are going to go.
So if your dog isn't super food motivated, spend a week before this building food drive. Feed meals by hand. Use higher-value treats. Make food exciting.
And one more thing: I used to correct dogs who didn't get into position fast enough.
Now? I just wait. I let them figure it out. If they make a mistake, I don't reward. I just reset and try again.
Dogs learn faster when they're figuring it out themselves, not being forced into position.
Your Action Step This Week:
Set up your place board. Stand next to it at the heel position (dog on your left).
Call your dog to place. As he approaches, take one step back with your left foot, one step forward.
When he's at your side, mark with GOOD and reward.
Do 10 reps. That's it.
This is just the beginning. Next week, we'll start adding movement and duration. But for now, just focus on getting your dog to WANT to be at your side.
Until Next week,
Oscar,
Elevated Canine Academy
WHAT’S NEXT FOR YOU:
That's a wrap on the 5-week Dog Training Fundamentals series.
These are the foundations that everything else is built on.
If you nail these five things - engagement, recall, luring, place, and heel - you've got a dog that's a joy to live with.
And if you’re ready to go to the next level…
FOUNDATION TO FUNCTION - ONLINE COURSE LAUNCHED!
I just launched my full training online course “Foundation to Function”.
For those who can’t come train with me in person.
You get hours of exactly how I use these markers to build sport dogs.
This isn't a highlight reel. This is the real process - mistakes, adjustments, corrections, and all.
What's Inside:
I break down play mechanics,
engagement building, and
marker loading step-by-step.
Engagement building (the main ingredient)
It was a lot of work but I finally put it together. I’d like to thank you all for your support.
THAT'S A WRAP
3 ways I can help:
1) Elevated Canine Academy — Professional training in LA, San Diego, and Dallas. From pet obedience to competition prep. Book a consultation »Elevated Canine Academy
2) Undrdog Brand — Training equipment built by trainers, for trainers. Vests, tugs, and more at Undrdog Brand»
Until next week,
- Oscar Mora
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